Hey, it’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint with another live stream. Thank you for coming on. This is an interactive training and I hope you enjoy the show! Today’s topic is 2000 BMW Z3 M Roadster Bumper Cover and Hood Paint Talk Plus Q&A.
I am super tired and jet lagged. I’m sorry, I know I’m not supposed to start the training session this way, but let’s make the most out of today’s show.
The 2000 BMW Z3 M Roadster BMW will be finished this weekend and painting will be probably next week.
I’ll go over the front bumper cover and the hood with you quickly tonight and show you what the game plan is, because you can take these strategies to use on your project.
Let’s run through everything step-by-step quickly, such as the methods that we’re going to do as well as the kind of papers we’ll be using and everything you need to know. Then, we’re going to move on to Q&A.
I’m back in Texas. I was in Japan then I flew to Boston for my speaking engagement and now I’m back in home base. We have a very nice weather right now. It feels good to be home.
Ohio … Iowa … Georgia … California … North Carolina … Brazil
Awesome! Thanks again for coming on, guys!
I only have 17 days left before I leave so I need to finish up the 2000 BMW Z3 M Roadster. I will be painting the front end of the BMW. The rest of the car is in great condition so we don’t have to do the entire car.
The front is a little chipped up. We could see that it was painted before. We could see some of the chipping, the scuffing at the bottom and the spider webbing as they call it, which is when you hit it, the paint cracks.
You could also see the orange peel in the clear coat and all the rock chips. We also have a little scuff on the side. Not too bad. These are all easy a couple hours of job and the whole front could be prepped up.
We’re also painting the hood. We have rock chips. I’ll order a brand new BMW emblem. There’s also a dent In the middle of the hood,
We’ll fix that dent and all the rock chips and we’re going to paint the entire hood as well as the front bumper cover. The entire front of the car will look like new.
Then, we’ll buff out the rest of the car to bring the shine back. We’ll basically just blend the hood and it’s going to look really nice when we’re done.
I have 240-grit on my orbital sander. You can use a 220-grit, but I wouldn’t go much more than 240-grit. You can still use a 150-grit or a 180-grit, but if you use a 150-grit but you’ll cut really quick.
I will sand out all these chip marks and spider webs, get everything all smooth and feathered out. I will cut all the orange peel on the front and keep it all flat.
Once that’s done, we’re going to mix up our 2k filler primer. We’re going to use some glaze putty if we have to and glaze all the areas that need it.
Then, we’re going to sand it down with 400-grit and get it ready for our base coat and clear coat.
I’m going to do the headlight tactic. There are two ways to do it.
You can buff it out and clear them. I don’t like to clear coat them unless they’re really, really old and you’re getting rid of the car.
If you clear coat, you have to worry about peeling, especially if you’re keeping the car a couple of years. You can risk the chance of it peeling and the headlights would look really bad again.
I like to just buff them out. I would sand this with 2000-grit and buff them really good so they would look real nice. If they get dull again in 3 to 5 years, you just need to buff them out again.
I personally like buffing my headlights out. They look just as good and come out just as nice without the clear coat. Plus, you don’t have to mix and spray clear coat. It’s done in one shot.
We paint the hood and paint the bumper cover then the headlights and buff the whole car and detail it. I’m going to make it really, really nice.
I’m going to start the bumper cover probably half day on Saturday then hopefully finish it off on Sunday and get it ready for paint. I’ll be painting it probably the middle of next week.
We’re going to do most of the body work on the car. Then, take the bumper cover off, so I don’t have to worry about masking so much.
I need to take the wheels off because I need to take the wheel well cover off it then take the bumper cover off.
We’ll take the bumper cover off of the car so we can go underneath and do a good paint job on it. The hood’s going to be painted on the car and then, we assemble everything.
That’s the game plan. I hope you guys are liking this so far. I’m sorry about the energy level because I’ve been up since 2am and it’s been a long day for me.
Question: Are you going to use an epoxy primer?
I’m not going to use an epoxy primer. I’m going to use a filler primer. Epoxy primers are more over metal.
We are going to have this done in HD videos and will be uploaded in the members area of LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.
I’m actually thinking of selling it because some things just came up. I really didn’t want to get rid of it because in four years, this will be a classic. It’s a 2000 BMW.
Question: What paint will you be using?
I’m going to be using House of Kolor Kosmic Clear Coat USC01 and a Shop Line Base Coat.
The House of Kolor Clear Coat is a very good clear coat with very low dye back, which means it doesn’t get dull after it cures for about a week. It stays shiny. I bought it when it was on sale for about $200 to $230 (around that price range).
Question: Do you need to reduce it?
No. You don’t have to reduce it. It’s a 4:1 mixture.
Question: What is the best way to patch holes in panels from removed badges and old mirrors?
I usually grind the area down. You can go down to metal with a little grinder or scuff it up really good with 80-grit and just fill it with a little bit of body filler.
The whole is so tiny, so you can just push some body filler in it, sand it, and prime it. You can glaze it if you have to. I filled holes many times with just body filler. It’s not a big deal.
Question: What’s the compound best for head lights?
Any compound will do.
Question: Have you ever used The Wet Wet Clear Coat?
Never used it. Let me know how it is. What are you painting?
Question: How well do you think the paint will match up on your BMW?
I think it will match pretty well. I’m going to have my paint girl match it up for me. It’s either she’ll come over to my shop or I could just drive over to the paint shop before I take the car apart, and have her mix up some paint and match it for me.
What you could do is drive the car down to the paint shop, they can put a machine on it and make the exact same color, or sometimes it easier to take the gas cap off and bring it to the paint shop and they’ll match the paint.
I usually try to give them a panel that’s close to where I’m painting. If I’m painting the back quarter panel or the door, the gas cap would be perfect to bring to the paint shop.
But, I’m just driving over and tell her to clean an area by the side of the car for me and match it for me, the area which is close to the hood. I’m not really one of the guys who mixes up the paint. I always have the shops do that for me.
I don’t think I’m going to get that close in basing to the lines. I’m going to base the body work area and just dust the area and clear it.
I think it’s going to match up really good, especially after you buff it out and detail it. I would buff the bottom part of the fender and the side of the door out really well.
Maybe I’ll paint the sides. I was thinking of making it black, but I don’t want to customize it too much since I’m going to sell it. Even if it’s a really good car, I may just get rid of it.
Question: What’s the process for covering single-stage rattle can paint going on base coat clear coat?
That rattle can paint can give you problems, so I would really sand off that rattle can paint. You need to put a good 2K primer on it then do your base coat clear coat.
Question: What do you think about Plasti Dip?
I think Plasti Dip is cool if you like a flat look or if you’re looking like a cheap style paint job. It’s totally different than professional automotive finishes, that’s for sure.
I think Plasti Dip is cool if you’re doing custom stuff and you want the easy way. You can’t buff that stuff out. It’s not hard paint.
Question: I’m looking to hide graphic lines on bike. Laid 2 coats to clear. It’s been two days. Should I hit it with 1500-grit and wet?
Yes, absolutely. Hit it with 1500-grit or even 1200-grit and lay around 2 coats of clear on it.
Question: I have a hard top for my Miata that was rattle canned and the job was not to standards.
Make sure to get rid of the rattle can paint, sand it all off, put a good 2K primer on it, then hit it with 400-grit and give it a fresh coat of paint.
Question: What’s the difference between wet and dry sanding on paint?
There’s no real difference. It’s less dusty if you wet sand. During dry sanding, you can see what you’re cutting a little easier. I like to finish by water sanding because I think you get a cleaner cut with wet sanding as a final sand.
In LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP, I talk about the reasons why I like wet sanding certain areas and at certain times. There’s really no difference, but there are times wherein you want to use dry versus wet sanding and vice versa.
Question: Can you do the primer work in rattle cans?
Not really. Most rattle can primers is 1K. When you spray it on, the solvent inside of it evaporates and dries.
Unless you can get a good 2K rattle can primer, because there is a 2K rattle can primer. I just don’t use it because I have the mixtures here and I use my spray gun.
Feedback: Tony you look beat, man! Get a good night’s sleep!
I’m tired! I’ve been up since 2am and I already had an 18-hour day. I’m still jetlagged but I didn’t want to miss this show. I totally missed yesterday’s show, so I don’t want to miss this one.
Question: Aluminum hood, should I use epoxy primer?
Yes, absolutely! I remember I did a Nissan 300ZX and I had an aluminum hood that I had to do over. I use epoxy primer on it then finished it.
Question: Would you recommend a 3M platinum filler?
Why not? I don’t think it’s bad stuff.
Question: Would you lay 2K over epoxy primer?
Yes, you can. Remember, you can use epoxy as a base as well.
Question: What is the best way to renew panel gaps, the old stuff is falling apart?
I don’t exactly know what you mean. When you’re doing your body panels and aligning your fenders and hoods, you can space it out with washers if you’re working on older cars. Classics are spaced out with washers and spacers.
Get it as close as possible. My hood’s not close, if you have something like this, you could measure with your finger, you could feel how the gap is, then compare it with the other side, which is the kind of gapping that you want.
When you’re doing your body work, make sure that you’re pulling your bumper up, or you’re adjusting your hood and latches, to make sure it’s even.
Question: Do you have a paint booth?
No. I don’t have a paint booth. I paint right here in my garage and I get professional finishes. In the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course, we show you how to do paint booths as well, if you want to paint in it.
Question: What is the budget paint setups for automotive student? I want to get some practice.
There’s a lot of budget paint set ups. Get some cheap paint from paint shops such as Nason Paint and Shop-Line has a pretty good price too. I recommend you practice on a bike.
For those who are new to auto body work, you can download your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual and get a lot of information to get you started.
If you want a complete step-by-step guide, check out the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course and get exclusive access to my videos and complete projects.
It’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. I’m calling it a night. Thank you again for joining me. My 2000 BMW Z3 M Roadster will be done by next week, I will give you an update. Everything will be documented and uploaded in the VIP members area.
Don’t forget to join me weekly. I have my flipping cars for profit show every Wednesday at 9pm Eastern and auto body show every Thursday at 9pm Eastern.
Don’t’ forget to Like, Share and Subscribe to my videos. I appreciate it!
Have a good night!
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