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LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com Questions and Answers Blog Contest

Hey guys and welcome to the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Question and Answers Contest, depending on how many questions I get, I may do a winner for both Facebook questions and regular blog questions that are submitted.

Anything goes, just submit your most burning question about auto body and paint below NOW and get the chance to win a complete VIP course from Tony and the LABAP Team.

Learn all about the VIP course and what you get access to as a VIP member here. I will be picking 1 or 2 lucky winners this Saturday, November 8, 2014 and it will be recorded on video as well. The winner will be posted to this blog under my first video!

Good luck and start sending your burning questions NOW!

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WE HAVE A WINNER!!!

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Hey Guys!

So finally we’ve picked the Lucky Winner of the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com VIP Course!! Go ahead and watch the video.

Congratulations and we’ll contact YOU soon!

Thank you for your participation, everyone! You can still leave your comments below because in the next coming weeks, we’ll be doing more LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Q&A videos. I’d still love to hear from you and hopefully answer all your burning questions about auto body work and painting.

Keep rockin’!

-Tony

Comments

comments

 

49 Responses to LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com Questions and Answers Blog Contest

  1. Dave Williams November 5, 2014 at 6:05 pm #

    So you inspired me to paint my first car and it turned out pretty good. I will never underestimate the amount of work to prepare and sand a body, it is a lot, better than a workout at the gym.
    I did this at home in my garage in a home made booth.

    This was in training and preparation to trying to paint my 1995 XJS Jaguar.
    I want to retain the same body color and the paint in the door jambs is OK, but what I want to know is how to mask for filler and then sealer and then color so I do not get edges and over spray?. Seems I would either get an edge or have to keep moving the edge with each layer?

    DO I have to re-mask each time I change layers of paint?

    • Hugh Smith November 10, 2014 at 2:36 pm #

      Hi Tony,

      I love! your site and the emails I have been receiving. Great! I hope I can continue receing them! I have a quick question, I have a really smaller Sears home compressor. 5.5 CFMs.
      I have read about the LVLP spray guns. that required much smaller air supply. This sounds like it might work for me in my situation ? But Not sure.. Can you help me out here. Do the “new” LVLP guns really paint with that small of air supply. I’ve also heard that the overspray is much/much less. Please, can you advise regarding a LVLP gun?

      Also ; What is the good/besr TIP size, I should use to paint Single Stage Urenthane?

      Thanks again and Keep of the good work!
      Hugh from Virginia

  2. Mo Laker November 5, 2014 at 6:26 pm #

    Hi Tony, I have a car thats gone dull. It is painted in 2k solid.
    Can I go over it with a 2k clear lacquer .
    Mo…………….

  3. Joe Valenzuela November 5, 2014 at 6:29 pm #

    I would like to know how hard is it to learn auto body work and especially auto painting?, I don’t know much about it, thanks.

  4. Jordan Stafford November 5, 2014 at 6:44 pm #

    Hi Tony,

    My Dad gave me an old 1971 VW Bug for my first car. I want to make it nice for the ladies so Tony, I really need to paint it. The original paint is called Clementine Orange. It is real powdery and it has cracks that look like they go all the way down to the metal. If I just sand it on the surface will the primer coat and real paint fill in the cracks? Or should I go down to the metal all over the body?

    If I have to take off all of the paint, should I use a paint on stripper or have it sandblasted? I don’t have a huge budget because I’m still in High School, but I love the work you do on your website and I’d like to do a good job on my first paint job too.

    Thanks
    Jordan

  5. Wes November 5, 2014 at 7:03 pm #

    Hey Tony,

    Enjoy your energy. Thank you.

    I am a new DIY auto painter, often lost in the woods. I have found a color I like that is only available in single stage. What are the disadvantages / advantages to using single stage? Can you color sand and buff single stage (I am thinking “yes”) If you needed to, can you apply clear coat over single stage? Any comments about working with single stage paints would be appreciated, thanks!

    Wes in Oregon

  6. Brandon November 5, 2014 at 8:02 pm #

    Hello Tony.

    First of all thank you very much for all the help you have already provided. My question for you is when you are spraying tail lights, head lights, any lights in general in order to tint them do you spray the clear with some black base on it to tint it? Or do you spray it with a candy or use a clear base coast tinted then just use regular clear over that either with gloss or matte which ever look your going for. Thanks again appreciate it

  7. Gary Lockhart November 5, 2014 at 8:32 pm #

    Hi Tony,
    I would like to know how would you repair surface rust on the top of a pickup truck?

  8. Glen November 5, 2014 at 9:42 pm #

    Hey Tony,

    Like everyone else on here again thanks for the Videos and all the work you have put into this site for us newbies.
    My question or comment is i currently live in Canada and it gets cold so Im limited on projects do to cold weather 5 months of the year – 35–45C COLD!!!
    Anyway i currently spray with a air turbine system and a HVPL gun and have to say i love it for a beginner I do have one challenge and that is my gun has a 1.4 tip and base coat is great but my clear is a little heavy and orange peels a little, should i go to a 1.2 tip size or reduce my clear? or is that possible.

    Thanks again
    From Canada
    Glen.

  9. David November 5, 2014 at 10:24 pm #

    Hi Tony,
    You inspired me to fix a couple of repairable write offs but it didn’t go so well, not because of your spot on info, because of the stupid laws here in Australia. The car looked great, paint looked great for a backyard spray booth but the car had to be within a mm of the manufacturer’s specs and couldn’t have too much body filler.
    So my question is – how do you get a modern car, made with such flimsy, thin, rolled steel panels, within a few mm of the original shape? I especially want to know how you can pull a dent out in the stuff so it doesn’t bounce straight back in again when you push it?
    Cheers
    Dave

  10. Andrew Scheer November 5, 2014 at 10:58 pm #

    Hi Tony,
    I am 16 years old and I have bought a 1996 bronco that I am in the process of working on. My question for you is the paint on my textured fiberglass top has faded from black to almost grey. When the top is wet it looks black but when it dries it turns to black grey haze what is the best way to fix the faded paint without having to respray the top.
    Thank you

  11. Patrick Cavanagh November 6, 2014 at 12:01 am #

    Hey tony I was just sanded my second projecg car with 400 grit all the dents have been worked by me and it’s really good all done by your you tube videos but I got a problem I waes sprayin 2k primer from my spray gun and it waes shooting out like a spider web if you get me , is it coz of the gun or is it coz I didn’t add enough 2k reducer tony ? Thanks in advance

  12. James Hubbard November 6, 2014 at 12:12 am #

    I am a little overwhelmed with all the new spray guns primers and paint
    My project is a 1971 Chevy Impala convertible with lots of surface rust the body was straight
    It needs new rocker panel drivers side but that I think I can handle what is the best way to sand and prep the metal so I do not have to redo this in a year or so Also on a very tight budget

  13. bill November 6, 2014 at 4:51 am #

    I am a complete novice at restoration and spraying. Have done some body filling work which is OK but amazingly time consuming. As far as spraying is concerned, I struggle to set my air pressure to get the correct spray volume and pattern. I use a LVLP gun. My compressor is small and I would like to know what the ideal size (liters) an auto spray compressor should be. Cheers

  14. Joe November 6, 2014 at 11:14 am #

    Tony,
    I don’t have the space to paint my 95 Ranger inside how can I get this done outside?
    Your blog is great
    Thanks

  15. BILL November 6, 2014 at 12:24 pm #

    TONY Dude, what is the correct temperature to leave a piece to dry and how long you need to stay in the painting booth? Bill from greece.

  16. Matt November 6, 2014 at 5:53 pm #

    Tony, I keep trying to paint a fender and put on the recommended number or primer, base, and clear coats. Problem is I keep block sanding through the primer really quickly using the recommended grits. Now i have it painted and was nervous i would sand through, so there are imperfections and horrible orange peel. I got the peel a little better with some wet sanding but might have gone through the clear. I cant tell if my coats are too thin or I’m using too much sanding pressure or something. Help!

  17. Ray November 6, 2014 at 6:08 pm #

    Tony,

    My name is Ray and I live in Lakeport, Ca. This is the third painting project I’ve tackled in two years, 67 Karmann Ghia, 87 Toyota Pickup and my most recent job, 94 Honda Del Sol. My biggest problem is orange peel. My first project I used Acrylic Enamel One stage paint. Good stuff. But the other two projects, because of my budget, I painted with, dare I say it, implement paint. It is an enamel I got at the “Tractor Supply Co.” It dries really slow. I don’t have a booth or garage so the job is done outside under my carport. Bugs are my enemy. It takes 24hrs to dry enough to sand so my project progresses slowly. I have a decent compressor and gun (hvlp), just cheap paint. I can’t seem to get a good flat coat. Last coat I ran the paint too much. This coat the paint didn’t run, but got a lot of orange peel. The last coat i ran some and got orange peel too. Both types of paint yielded orange peel.

    I think it is the gun pressure that is my problem. The question is regarding the gun pressure. I watched your video on adjusting gun pressure. I just can’t understand how you would test the pressure while the gun is emitting air. The gun is supposed to have 38ft/lbs at the input. when I depress the handle it drops to 15 or so. Do I crank the compressor pressure up so that I can sustain 38lbs at the gun? I had the compressor set at 40 and regulated the gun at 38.

    Thanks again,

    Ray

  18. James Walters November 7, 2014 at 2:47 am #

    Hey Tony I just bought my first home with a 2 1/2 car garage and I have a 86 GMC short bed, body in great condition. Now I do not have a compressor yet but wanted to get started on project. Have been sanding it down to bare metal I have been sealing it with an automotive etching primer from a spray can. Is this ok or will it cause me more problems down the line. Should I wait until I have a compressor or is it ok to continue. Thanks for all the great tips and videos. Thanks James

  19. Anthony P November 7, 2014 at 5:24 pm #

    Hi Tony thanks for your videos
    My question is regarding safety.
    I am restoring a 78 VW Camper and I am working away fixing rust and replacing panels.
    All the work so far I have done by myself so I have decided to do the paint too. That is how I found your site.
    I am working in a detached garage, can you give some advice on keeping the air breathable without creating other problems like dust.
    Also what is the minimum PPE you would suggest.
    As I am a hobbyist I will be painting very occasionally but I want to know how to be safe from the fumes / solvents, etc.
    Thank you
    Anthony

  20. Paul November 7, 2014 at 5:52 pm #

    Tony,
    Like you I started at 13 with my first car, a 55 chev belair, which I still own. At 53 this has remained a hobby to enjoy and have done many cars. I have an issue which maybe funny to you. I have always used siphon spray guns. I purchased 3 HVLP guns. One for primer, paint and clear with tips to match purpose. Why does it seem to be so difficult to get enough material to go down compared to siphon? Is air that picky?

  21. Angel November 7, 2014 at 8:12 pm #

    Hi, Tony I would like to know wich spray gun HVLP or LVLP leave best automization and best result on panel for base coat and clear coat

    • Tony November 8, 2014 at 2:39 am #

      Hey Angel, depends on the size of your air compressor. check out the warwick 904HE here http://www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/shop/ You can get it in either HVLP or LVLP.

      • Angel November 8, 2014 at 10:16 pm #

        Well I got 60gal. Compressor 3.2Hp and I”ll paint at my garage, wich spray you recommend me Warwick 904He Hvlp or lvlp. Are the same or one it’s better than other?

  22. Manuel Valle November 7, 2014 at 8:52 pm #

    Hi,Tony I’m very confused about buffing step by step process after complete paint job.And wich pad and wich rubbing compound use for first step and wich pad and wich polishing paste use For second step

  23. Jim D November 8, 2014 at 1:52 am #

    Hi Tony, at 60, I have begun my next phase in life. I am learning several new jobs .I have been an electrician all of my working life. I have since 1987, a 1987 Buick Grand National, it needs new paint. I have built a temporary polyurethane tent. All PPG Shop line, 60 gallon 5 hp compressor, siphon sprayer. Filters and regulator. Pulled all the parts off the car that would come off. Stripped, self etching primer, epoxy primer, base and cleared all the small stuff. All of which has turned out well until I began the large panels. My lid was first and it has tiger strips. I adjusted the gun on a large card board mounted to the wall. I sprayed horizontally for 5 seconds. When the runs were equal I knew I had the gun ready.I began spraying the lid. I had 45 lbs and 55 lbs at the gun. Added and subtracted the fan. Moved in and out, moved slower and faster. Smalls were easy but large panels are taking some trails and errors. So, my question is ” were do the tiger strips come from”? TIA Jim

  24. Joel Barajas November 8, 2014 at 6:36 am #

    Hi, Tony I wanted to ask you a question I am a stencil artist but I am having difficulty on finding a good material to lay my stencils. What kind of materials can I use to do a detail stencil on my hood? Thanks

  25. Arroyo November 8, 2014 at 8:48 am #

    Hi, Tony I would like to know wich paint brands is better to paint and quality.

    1.Nason
    2.chroma(Dupont)
    3.RM(Diamond)

  26. John Fields November 8, 2014 at 11:59 am #

    Hey Tony, WAXMAN here. Well I’m not the most skilled individual when it comes to computers and not quite sure if this is where I should be if entering for the free VIP contest.
    Here’s my dilemna. A “friend” said he had alot of expereience painting cars and offered to paint my ’77 Toyota Celica GT. What a mistake! His body work was just ok, His paint job, TERRIBLE! I went to Eastwoods site and chose the color Pure White in the gal. kit which comes with the quart of activator to make that amount sprayable matl. He used it all on my baby and the result was just one big orange peel. I’ve been anauto detailer and customizer for over 25 years and have cut and buffed my share of new paint jobs but never sprayed one so I knew what I was doing when I started out to try and salvage the job. WRONG! Where ever I touched with 1500 wet sandpaper the primer was showing up way before I could get it “smooth”. I’m bummed but I’m hoping with your experience you might be able to shed some light on saving it.
    Can I get more paint and if so whats involved in shooting over whats there? The paint was done about 9 months ago and I’m just now getting back to it because I was so disgusted I went on to one of my other toys, but now I’m anxious to get it back on the street. Eastwoods states the Pure White single stage is to be applied first and then they have a pearl to go over it which I’m hoping it’s not too late to do so. Is all this doable or am I just destined to sand it back down and start over?
    I just recently started getting your emails etc. and I must say you do one helluva job in your teaching mode. I really am enjoying all the tips and instructions to the point I’m going to give this a shot at possibly saving my toy. Keep up the good work and I’m trying to decide which gun to purchase from you in the very near future. Thanks again, Tony.
    The WAXMAN—— Sierra Vista, AZ

  27. Martin Smith November 8, 2014 at 1:32 pm #

    Hi Tony, I have just finished the basecoat (metalic) 2k paintwork for my motorcycle and now intend to do some airbrush design on it. I will be using Auto Air water based paints for this.

    My questions are: do I airbrush onto basecoat? do I lacquer first? how many coats of lacquer are required over waterbased and does 2k lacquer work with the Auto Air paints?

    Kind Regards,

    Martin

  28. A.Del Valle November 8, 2014 at 9:43 pm #

    Hi, Tony I just wanna Know how to spray pearls and metallic. Can I spray it into inter coat using reducer?? Or using clear coat? Or what exactly use.

  29. Norm November 10, 2014 at 4:08 am #

    Could you cover painting interiors and engine compartments? Is it simpler to use a single stage paint? How many coats of clear for 2 stage? Detail gun or regular?

  30. Israel Ochpa November 10, 2014 at 5:11 am #

    Hi Tony I like Custom Painting but I am to slow to learn. bodywork’ and painting are inposible
    for me to learn but Thanks anyway

  31. K. Abrahams November 10, 2014 at 6:27 am #

    I am respraying an off road baja bug which has 4 fenders and other body parts made from fibreglass. I have tried many many times, but I constantly get pin holes after I apply the primer. Sometimes the pin holes are not initially visible but after a few hours.

    I have resorted to using filler primer and more resent some one recommended using hot wax.

    This is driving me nuts. As a car enthusiast I would very much like to know the tricks of fibreglass.

  32. Rick Dugina November 10, 2014 at 10:03 am #

    I have posted above. Looks like its on Facebook. Will wait for a reply and hope to win a subscription. Love the Youtube videos.
    I can send photos or video of my project later but at this point I am trying to learn to spray and repair correctly.
    I will be in touch later about trying to repair very small dints (hail damage) in areas that I cannot get to from behind.

    Thanks for the help so far. Regards Rick (Melbourne , Australia )

  33. Hugh Smith November 10, 2014 at 2:59 pm #

    Hi Tony,

    Thank You!! I have a small home computer sears 5.5 CFMs. I have heard that the “new” LVLP guns might be the ticket for me? How do they paint. Can you comment on the LVLP guns?
    Hugh from Virginia keep up the good work!

  34. Robinson Moreira November 10, 2014 at 4:11 pm #

    Hi Tony
    I have 67 Camaro with some rust on the rear glass channel area , therefore I will be fabricating some patch panels to repair my rotted out areas. So my question is Would you fabricate the panels out of 18 or 20 gauge cold rolled sheet metal ?

  35. Robert Cocain November 10, 2014 at 4:30 pm #

    I painted a bumper on my car and it seemed sticky and like sand was thrown on the new paint.
    How do I now handle this at this time.

  36. Jose November 10, 2014 at 11:44 pm #

    Hi Tony, what is the difference between high solid paint and low solid paint?

    When you are spraying clear coat, the speed on the gun is slow on first hand and fast at second hand?? Or is the same speed for each hand or depend what kind of spray gun you are using lvlp or hvlp????

  37. Merlyn November 11, 2014 at 1:32 am #

    Hey Tony, any advise on how to remove a crease in a body panel which is hard or nearly impossible to gain access from behind to try to bang it out. I’m trying to get rid of a crease about 3 inches long located in a rear quarter panel above a wheel well. Thanks

  38. WILLIAM LOHNES November 11, 2014 at 4:19 am #

    HELLO TONY , GREAT JOB YOU HAVE BEEN DOING . HOW LONG CAN I LEAVE PRIMER ON BEFORE I MUST PAINT. I USED HIGH BUILD SELF-ETCHING , HIGH BUILD PRIMER SURFACER . I KEEP IT CLEAN AND IN MY GARAGE .ITS BEEN ONE NOW FOR A YEAR AND I WILL WAIT FOR NICE DAY TO PAINT. IAM SLOW DO TO OTHER HOUSE I LIVED IN HAD A BAD FIRE . THIS WAS A VERY HARD TIME FOR ME . I HAD TO HAVE CAR TRAILERED TO ANOTHER HOME . CAR WAS IN GARAGE AND AWAY FROM HOME . GARAGE WAS OK,BUT HOUSE GONE . THIS IS WHY I NEED TO KNOW , THATS ITS OK TO LEAVE IN PRIMER STATE FOR NOW . WHEN I PAINT OR DO BODY WORK I KEEP EVERTHING VERY CLEAN. I KNOW I WON’T BE ABLE TO PAINT CAR TILL SPRING OF 2015 .

  39. jim hendry November 11, 2014 at 4:45 am #

    like to know about rust conversion coating. can you just prime and then right over it?

  40. A.Del Valle November 15, 2014 at 7:27 am #

    Hi, Tony my question is, what kind of reducer I need to use , lo, med or fast. My situation is: I”ll paint at my home garage, I’ll close it using plastic all around and using 3 work ligth of 500 watts to heat the home made booth. Iam from Puerto Rico and the weather here always is hot like 90°F to 96°F but the humidity is between 50% to 70%. In side of home made booth can reach from 99°F to 115°F. THANK YOU…

  41. Paul September 3, 2015 at 12:42 am #

    I need help. I got hit on my rear right tail light and got a dent. I pulled the dent but there is a gap
    between the fender and trunk lid how do i close that gap ?.

    • Tony September 4, 2015 at 2:25 pm #

      I would think you need to pull it to align a bit more, then you would fill and shape with body filler. It’s hard to give you advice without looking at the damage… did you get a chance to check out LABAP VIP? We have ton’s of videos and help there for you to learn from.

  42. Mary t. White December 23, 2016 at 1:17 am #

    Can you use the same process to paint a fiberglass boat hull as a car? I’ve got several glass canoes and an old deep v I’d like to refinish… I’m not worried about color or effects, just want the boats to look well-maintained.

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