Hey, it’s Tony here from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint.com. Thank you for joining me live today. Giving you some tips on Prepping Fender, Panels, and Rims before Painting. Don’t forget to LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for more videos about our Honda Grom Project and get great information to help you with your own custom painting! And also, check out the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program to learn more about DIY auto bodywork and paint.
This piece of raw plastic is our Rear Fender. So we sanded it down, we prep it with 400 grit and what we did was put an adhesion promoter on it. Now you can paint base coat directly over adhesion promoter if you wanted to overall plastic.
So raw plastic adhesion promoter, you could put base coat clear coat right on top of that. You could put a single-stage right on top of that but because I wanted to get rid of the plastic texture and make it come out like glass,
I filler primed it, two coats, give or take. Now I can sand it smooth and it looked like glass.
For bare aluminum, aluminum corrodes over time and hard to take care, unless you’re really on polishing it. So the aluminum parts, we epoxy primed it, and then I 2k filler primed on top of that.
Then for Rims, we did all the rims both epoxy primed and also 2k primer. So that what we did so far.
The Panels are super easy. We just have to wash our panels down and just blast them. We’re not going to be doing much 2k filler primer with these pieces.
Just going to sand them, wash them down, clean them, glaze little areas if we need it with a 1k glaze by Upol, it’s a 1k combination.
It’s not that cheap crap glaze putty-like intro stain that old stuff we used back in the day. This is a 1k you don’t need to mix it. It’s not a two-part epoxy, not a two-part glaze. It’ll dry in 10 minutes and you could wet sand it or dry sand it.
Come out good and it won’t shrink. So this is a good 1k putty.
We are going to use this stuff on our Honda Grom Project and everything will be recorded for you as you can see step by step how we use it and how we paint over it.
Tips For A Gloss Finish On Narrow Tubes
I would say make sure you have your lighting set up because if you can’t see the gloss lay on, you don’t know if you’re flat or dry in some areas or glossy.You got to be able to see because if you can see, hit it while you’re painting and just because you made a pass doesn’t mean you can’t go back and load it up a little more if it looks dry. Just go back and hit it again while you’re painting.
Some people think that after you gave it a coat they can’t go back. You can still go back because it takes a little time for the paint to flow out and set it up. If you wait too long then the clear coat is not gonna melt into the existing clear. It’ll just haze up and have looked like overspray again, then you have to recoat it again the third time.
Thank you for tuning in guys! I’ll be shooting this Honda Grom project off the cuff and show you what’s going on while painting this.
Talk to you soon guys! Have a great week. Mahalo Aloha!
For more helpful links:
The Three (3) Ways to SAND: Wet Sanding VS Dry Sanding Plastic Parts – The Pros and Cons!
Primer Types and Sandpaper Grits to Use For Each: Auto Body Q&A
The Correct Way To Use Epoxy Primer: Auto Body Q&A
Color sanding Runs From a Single Stage Paint Job
Should YOU Apply Body Filler Directly Over Metal or Epoxy Primer?