DIY autobody and paint can save you a lot of money but you first need to know how to do it right. This might be easy for you to work on car projects if you gather information on how to do it properly. Read this blog for some of the tips you might need. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody work/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project” and more custom autobody work and paint. Please also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link: https://ecomdomination.tonybrichie.com/
QUESTION: Is it hard to change color in a car? Is it more work to it?
You will have probably 25-30% more work. You got to prep the door jambs, scuff, sand color, and also you got to mask up stuff. It is just a bit more work because you got to prep and mask up the door jambs, the trunk lid, and all the engine bay depending on how detailed you want to get.
You could do a quick or a very good masking job on the engine bay. Take the motor out of the engine if you want but you could absolutely paint the engine bay by using some tin foil covering some hoses and masking up as best as you can without pulling the engine out.
Follow-up question: Do you take off emblems or tape them?
It depends on the kind of job you want to do. Some emblems are easy and you could just mask them up like square emblems. Also, some emblems like wording and written on that are very hard to tape up. I don’t like to tape those emblems that I had. I just take them off and use a rubber wheel to take off the two-way tape or the glue then I sand and re-glue them back on.
QUESTION: Your opinion on the best way to spray chrome bumper bars to get the best paint adhesion?
I like to use 80 grit sometimes if you have pitting in your Chrome. You might want to use 80 but it’s a nice chrome bumper untouched and in very good condition, you could use 150 grit on a DA and scuff it all down. Also, you can also put some Epoxy primer on it, maybe two coats followed by two coats of 2k filler primer -sand that down with 400 grit, and then you’re ready for the color that you want to put on it. Base coat, clear coat, or single stage are also fine, that’s pretty much my protocol.
You could even skip Epoxy prime if you want to and you’ll not be going to have some issues but if you want to do it right, it’s better to have Epoxy prime on the metal followed by 2k filler primer. I’ve done skipping the Epoxy and it lasts for years with no problem.
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More DIY Auto body Videos to Watch:
The Basics: Auto Body And Paint Your Car Yourself Without Spending $1,000s:
Proven DIY BODYWORK Tricks – Easily Body Work & Paint Your Car at Home! Part 2:
How To Spray 2k Filler Primer and Apply Glaze Putty Before Single-Stage!:
How To SPRAY Raw Plastic, Aluminum, and Steel Car Parts (Single Stage BOSS BLACK):
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