LearnAutoBodyAndPaint: Learn Advanced Rust Repair Strategies

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Are you looking to repair rust on your special project? Today’s blog is entitled LearnAutoBodyAndPaint: Learn Advanced Rust Repair Strategies

If you’re just starting out and learning about rust repair you may be a little confused on what steps you should take with your project. First off, there are a few ways to repair rust.

1. Grind off rust, cut out damaged area, treat metal and weld in a patch. Then you’re ready for a light coat of Bondo for finishing.

2. Depending on your budget you may want to take the El-cheapo way of getting things done and grind, stuff and do a quick Bondo job just to get the vehicle out on the lot, or fulfilling what a customer is asking for.

We at learnautobodyandpaintcom will show you all ways of repairing rust. The right ways from spot repair, panel replacement to the El-cheapo jobs. So if you want to bang out a quckie, no problem.

Wanna do things right, follow our lead. Plain and simple.

These trainings are taught with step-by-step detailed videos within the VIP Membership Club area where we literally have thousands of happy VIP members (age ranges from 14-75) from all parts of the world.

See what we offer in the club here, and we hope top see you inside soon!

Example Live Before and after shot of a 1981 Honda Civic below:

This car was battered and butchered with Bondo from it’s previous owner. Look what we’ve done with it!

1982 Honda Civic Before & After pictures

It’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. I hope you enjoyed today’s blog which is entitled LearnAutoBodyAndPaint: Learn Advanced Rust Repair Strategies. Be a #BossPainter now and join the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program.

Talk soon! Cheers!


18 thoughts on “LearnAutoBodyAndPaint: Learn Advanced Rust Repair Strategies”

  1. Hi, my name is william and i been watching some of the videos you have in youtube, i’m from El Salvador and i have a old 89 white subaru justy and i think i can doit, i saw your videos and u have teach a lot through this website too.. so any advise will be more than welcome,… thank you for the videos u share through the web……

  2. Tony,
    I have a 1969 Ford F100 Striaght 6. I am about 80% finished restoring the engine myself and I am getting ready to start on the body. The body has no major dents in it but theres many small areas of rust and holes in the lower exterior doors, tailgate and roof above the doors where rain gets in. Will you give me any tips on getting started and what to start first and what all I’ll need to accomplish this myself. Doing it myself is what its all about for me. Thanks for being there for us.

    • Awesome John, Well. you need to get it all cleaned down to metal, by grinding, sanding, soda blasting or using aircraft paint remover. I like to sand or grind clean. It’s fast easy and not messy. Then you need to treat it with a rust inhibitor (you can use vinegar water) cheaper way. Then patch with sheet metal OR cut and replace panels, then do your basic body work with filler, primer and paints…

      If you want to learn more about the step-by-step processes of auto body work check out our VIP Membership Club, we have Hours of step-by-step video, private forums and thousands of VIP members that will help you like a friend.

      Be cool!

  3. hey tony ive got an old 95 eclipse rs model and im pretty sure that its sun chipped on the hood and partilly rusted on the top of the car how can i get it ready for me to paint it

    • You need to sand it all out and feather it smooth. Then apply about 2 coats of primer followed by wet sanding with 400, then paining. Did you take a look at the step-by-step training we offer in VIP?

  4. I just bought a 65 Austin Healey Sprite,and Im really wanting to do all the Moter work and body work myself,any information will be very much appreated.so many people have offered a doubtful comment about me being able to do this because I am a female,but I am a strong beleaver that if I want to do something bad enough to try it ,then trial and error will be a great lesson..thanks for all you do..

  5. Just getting the metal patches done on my project 35 ford coupe…question is about applying bondo over primer…been coating my metal repairs with rustoleum gray filler primer…can I bondo over this or do I have to grind it all off first…

    • Nice classic! It’s best to bondo over bare metal, but you can bondo over primer. Make sure it’s sanded and scuffed though so it sticks. 80 – 100 Grit scuff is what I like. Again, best to bondo over metal and bondo over bondo…. be sure to check out our VIP Members club when you have time 🙂

  6. hey i have a question? i am working on my 1970 firebird and i have sand the panel down to bare metal and i was woundering if you use etching primer before or after filler?

    • Its usually preference. Some guys like to seal it with primer, scuff it and add filler first. You can also lay filler, then prime over it all with etching. I like the latter but have tried both methods. They both work well. My personal choice is to lay filler over bare metal, then prime it all with epoxy. Then you can wet sand and shoot 2k primer/sealer over that and paint it. you can also paint right over epoxy no problem. Check out our VIP club to learn more about what we have to offer!


  7. Hi I have problem on my car. Some paint is lifting, peeling after I sprayed a topcoat of clear.
    I used urethane paint. I tried to re touch the damaged part after wet sanding. I primed the paint and it wrinkled again and again. What do I do? What is wrong?

    • I think you are having a problem with incompatible paints. You may be using a lacquer based primer or paint which is giving you the wrinkling problem. Wet sand it flat with 400 and get as smooth and flat as possible.

      Then you will want to seal it with a 2k primer. I would lay light dry coats at first just to see if you have a reaction. Speaking of that, you may be laying your paint on too thick too. That can cause reactions as well. Try spraying lighter coats 4-5 times. Good luck!

  8. T…looking at your videos has inspired me to paint some cars again. I was always crappy at body work, and now I have some projects (painting was always fun). Back in the late ’60’s, early 70’s you could achieve a dazzling Miles deep paint with base layers, flake w/clear layers, and clear layers…20-30 coats all lacquer, and a lot of sanding. Can you still get that same deep finish with modern paint systems…I mean deep enough to fall into?
    Just a side question…Will modern flakes melt or distort in lacquer?

    • That’s awesome man. Yes you can, all with base coat clear coat. No modern flakes will not distort lacquer paint if you apply enough clear over it. I would like to see you use base coat clear coat though. Did you see what we offer within the VIP auto body course yet? Good luck Johnny, maybe we’ll see you in the course =)


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