There is a lot of confusion over what PSI number and tip size should be used along with the gun you choose. Check out this post on what PSI Settings I recommend using on car painting projects and more auto body tips. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody work/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project”. Please also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link: https://ecomdomination.tonybrichie.com/
QUESTION: Do you take time to color sand your base coat prior to applying candy?
Nope, you do not need to sand your base coat when applying candy. So your candy coat goes directly over a sprayed base coat. The only thing you’re going to do is tack it. If you notice a lot of oversprays or even if you don’t have overspray you’re supposed to tack before you put clear coat; because there is going to be some overspray on it.
So yes, sanding is not needed, but tacking is needed. Tack it; make sure you’re flashed, make sure to dry 30-40 minutes give or take depending on your temperature, tack it and shoot it. You could put your candy on top of that and we have many videos over candy in VIP.
If you’re interested in learning, you want to get step-by-step guidance, don’t forget to go to learnautobodyandpaint.com and then there’s a special offer to check out VIP where we have over 250 hours of step-by-step videos that teach you everything about the auto body. We’ve been helping people since way back in 2010.
QUESTION: Can you use a smaller tip size and lower PSI for base coat and clear?
Yes, you could use a 1.0 depending on you. You could use a minigun using 1.0 and spray door jambs or a 1.2. With basecoat clearcoat, you can spray out of a 1.0, no problem. You don’t have to extra reduce your paints or anything.
So yes, you could use a small tip size for the basecoat clearcoat. But the recommended for overall paint jobs on our standard size spray gun is a 1.3 to 1.4 tip. This (ATOM X27) is fine for spraying basecoat, clearcoat, and single-stage paints. You could use either or whatever you feel comfortable with, it’s not a huge difference. But to me, I like spraying with the 1.4, I feel like I get a little bit more material on the panels.
If you’re concerned about overspray – because if you’re going to be painting a car with a regular size gun, you don’t want to use a 1.0 or 1.2, it’s just too small, and you want to go with a 1.3 or 1.4. So for reducing overspray, instead of spraying at 26-27 PSI trigger pulled, you can cut your pressure down a little bit to reduce overspray. Maybe spray at like 22-24 pounds.
With the Atom X88 spray gun, I noticed they atomize really really well and you can spray single stage 19 to 20 pounds and spray out beautifully. I’ve sprayed basecoat clearcoat 20-22 pounds out of this thing when the normal gun when you’re usually normally spraying at 24,25-26 PSI trigger pulled.
QUESTION: I have a paint pimple on my roof that has turned into a rust spot. How do I take care of it?
You want to grind it, treat it and fill it depending on how big it is. If it’s large, you might want to fill it with fiberglass and if it’s small, then you can just treat it with vinegar water and just put some Bondo on it and paint it. If it’s big, you got a hole sometimes when you grind those rust bubbles up you will have a hole.
Check out the G.O.O.D. VAN Project where I exactly do auto body work including rust repair.
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More DIY Auto body Videos to Watch:
🚘 The Basics: Auto Body And Paint Your Car Yourself Without Spending $1,000s: https://youtu.be/T11x2Jht5fQ
🚘 Proven DIY BODYWORK Tricks – Easily Body Work & Paint Your Car at Home! Part 2: https://youtu.be/1JYQpsLEPr4
🚘How To Spray 2k Filler Primer and Apply Glaze Putty Before Single-Stage PAINT!: https://youtu.be/WEfo3rdZYRk
🚘How To SPRAY Raw Plastic, Aluminum, and Steel Car Parts (Single Stage BOSS BLACK):
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