How To Prep Bare Metal For Paint | PSI Setting (HVLP vs. LVLP) | How To Fix Runs and More Autobody Q&A

Giving tips on how to prep the bare metal for paint, explaining the difference between LVLP and HVLP PSI settings, how to fix runs, and more auto body Q&A. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody work/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project”. Please also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon.

QUESTION: ​I painted my hood (bare metal) with epoxy primer, which has been sitting for about a month. Do I need to sand the epoxy primer before coating it with my 2K primer?

If it’s sitting for a month, I would just give it a quick scuff. You don’t have to sand it too much. Maybe just put like a 280 to a 320 grit, just to scuff it over quick. You don’t have to take too much off. And then you could put two coats of heavy 2k filler primer on that. 

Normally, if you’re shooting epoxy, and you let that flash from 30 minutes to an hour; that’s a good window. Then you could put a 2k filler primer right on top of it without sanding if you’re doing that the same day. 

I’ve actually waited a few days and primed on top without sanding and I never had any issues. But in a month you might want to just give it a quick scuff and paint it. 

*{Do I put a coat of sealer and then a filler primer?}

No. you can go straight 2K filler primer over the epoxy. 

QUESTION: What PSI do you spray a sealer at?

Sealer, you can spray at 22-24 pounds max, I wouldn’t go any higher than that. But if you got a good spray gun with good atomization you should be good around 22 to 24 pounds spraying a sealer. If it’s a primer sealer, you could be lowering that a little bit. You could be spraying from 18 to 22 pounds depending. Sometimes if I want to reduce my overspray when spraying a 2k filler primer slash sealer, I could spray at 18 to 20 pounds and it lays out nice lays down nice. 

QUESTION: ​How long do I have to wait before fixing clear coat runs?

So it depends on the activator that you use and the clear coat that you use. Normally, if you’re in hot weather and you mixed, normally a couple of days. Sometimes if you’re rushing, and it’s a customer job, and the clear coat dried really well, you could color sand and buffed the next day. But it’s recommended to wait a couple of days, a week, or even two weeks to make sure that clear is really cured up and hardened. You can tell by poking it with your finger now, and it’s going to be soft no matter what you do. 

The clear coat will be soft for a couple of days until that thing is really sitting in the sun or something and it’s really dried out. Then your runs will start to feel a little bit harder, but could still sand and buff the clear coat even though it’s a little soft.

QUESTION: Is there any difference in the PSI between the Atom X27 LVLP gun and an HVLP?

So the high volume will require a little bit more pressure from your tank, so it’s better to have a larger air compressor when spraying with that. the low volume low pressure is going to require a little less volume of air from your air tank, so you can spray it. But I mean, they’re both great guns. 

Not sure what application you’re doing, are you doing clear coats or base coats. And they say with base coats, it’s better to use a high volume low pressure and clear coats low volume low pressure, but I’ve sprayed both base and clear and single stage out of high volume low pressure guns and low volume low pressure and still got great results. I mean, you can’t even tell the difference between the results. So really doesn’t matter.

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