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Tony B. Richie is back with another auto body question. Today’s highlight question is, “How To Get Best Results When Doing Candy Paint.”
Question: Is a high build sandable primer good enough to fill a deep scratch? I’m planning to scuff and paint my ‘83 Mustang.
If it’s a key scratch on a door, you need to feather it out with a 320 to 380-grit on a DA. Go back and forth within that area to take it out. Then, prime and block it.
Alternatively, you can scuff and prime it. If you still see a little gouge, you can add glaze in it. There are different ways to do it but what I mentioned is how I would tackle it.
Question: What is the advantage of sanding with soapy water?
At times, I would re-use the water I used to wash my car to sand. I won’t go out of my way to add soap, though it doesn’t make a huge difference if you wet sand with soapy water. However, you can opt to do it with dishwashing soap and not soap with wax.
Question: What´s the best result with candy? Using directly transparent+candy+reducer or carrier+candy+reducer and then transparent+hardener+reducer?
The best result in terms of paint brilliance is painting over a silver base coat. However, for newbies, it is recommended to paint over a similar base color as your candy.
Then, put your candy top coat on it, let it flash and finally your clear coat on top.
Feedback from Arnold: Thank you so much for the Atom Mini X16 Spray Gun. It’s awesome. I’m happy with the results of the motorcycle pieces.
Thank you for the great feedback, Arnold! For this who would like to check out this great mini spray gun, head on over to Zoolaa!
Question: Can adhesive promoter be used if the basecoat had to sit overnight or a day or so? Would it still need sanding or just spray it?
I will not put any adhesive promoter on base. You can let your base coat sit for a day and it would still be fine to clear coat over it.
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