How To Spray Clear Coat Like a PRO – With Metal Flake!

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Hey, it’s Tony. Thank you for watching the video and checking out the blog today. Our topic for this blog post is How To Spray Clear Coat Like a PRO – With Metal Flake!

This is a part of the Mazda Miata Series that I have in the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program which I am sharing with you today. Welcome to Part 8 of the series!

Previously, we finished off our base coat, laid our decals and sprayed our green. Now, we’re taking off our decals to reveal the gold base coat that we laid underneath.

We’ll go around the whole car and take off all the decals, tack the entire car down and get ready for clear coat. Let’s go ahead and do that.

It took me about thirty to forty minutes to take off all of the decals. It really takes a while to do this because you need to be very careful not to scratch the paint.

I didn’t want the gold band to go all the way into the fender walls, so I decided to do some sort of feathering with the green and used my Warwick 878SHE Spray Gun.

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I’m just blending in our green here to give it a custom look. I wanted to play around with it a bit and give it a paint spray graphic look. I started doing it more and more, then realized that maybe I should have stopped earlier. However, it came out okay.

Initially, I didn’t like it but now that I’m creating these videos, it doesn’t look that bad anyway.

Now, we’re going to mix up our clear coat. Remember, the directions are at the back of the can. Sometimes it’s a 2:1 mixture and some have a 4:1 ratio. That’s 4 parts clear coat and 1 part hardener. Yet, it may also be a 4:1:1 which means 4 parts clear coat, 1 part hardener and 1 part reducer.

In this video, we’re using the House of Kolor clear coat system. It came out really well. We want to spray with a wide open fluid flow. We want to spray at 29-30 psi. I want full material flow and go all the way fan open and turn the knob just a quarter.

I started on the passenger roof rail then working my way around to the passenger door, then go to the fender and the hood. Then, I’ll go around the car. We’ll be doing this panel by panel.

I’m making sure it’s laying on nice and thick. I’ll be doing 2 heavy thick coats. It’s always better to have a little bit more than not enough.

I’ve also added a little bit of microsequence flake to the clear coat. When the sun hits it, it will pop and give it a kick back. Check out the video as I make a demo on how I paint.

Now, we are doing our second coat of clear. If you notice, I’m about 4-6 inches away from the panel where you want to be at.

Again, to get a good clear coat atomization, you want to paint at 29-30 psi. Use the light and make sure it’s laying on glossy.

If you want to, you can let it cure for a couple of days. Then, wet sand it with 1000-grit and lay an additional two coats of clear. That’s if you are up to it. However, two heavy coats is more than enough paint to put on. You’ll be fine and have enough room to color sand and buff to pro gloss.

Once done, we let it cure for an hour and a half. It’s a good time to take off your masking tape. If you wait too long and do it the next day, you’ll risk peeling some of your moldings and paint off because it’s set up too much. Afterwards, let it cure overnight.

The paint job is done. It came out pretty good. Join the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Program to get access to the complete Mazda Miata Series. For those who want to start doing awesome custom paint jobs like this, grab your FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual.

It’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. I hope you liked this video. Please Like, Share and Subscribe to my YouTube channel.

Talk soon! Cheers!


Other Helpful Links:

Get Access To The Complete Mazda Miata Project in LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Now! 

learn auto body vip course

Painting With Pearl and Metal Flake – Day 7 Boot Camp

How To Paint Pearl or Flake – Mix in Clear Coat or Intercoat?

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