Spraying Metallic Grey, Types of Sandpaper Grit, Inflatable Booth For Car Paint – More Autobody Q&A

Are you confused about how to properly spray metallic paint, what sandpaper grit to use on prepping your car for paint, or is it okay to use an inflatable spray booth? Find out how to get a perfect paint job with this quick guide post that can eliminate the guesswork, stress, and mistakes. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody and paintwork/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project” and more custom autobody work and paintPlease also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link: https://ecomdomination.tonybrichie.com/

QUESTION: Painting the cab truck metallic gray: Should I walk the whole side or paint fender to door, then the door to the end of the cab? 

So if you’re doing basic standard metallic that you have mixed (a paint shop mixed up for you or whatever) you don’t have to walk the side of the car. Just make sure you mix the paint really well before you reduce it. 

So when you have a brand new kind of base coat, you want to mix it really well before you reduce it and put your reducers in it, 1:1, then you can go ahead and paint. You don’t have to do that with regular metallic, no need to worry about that. 

Just make sure when you’re spraying you have proper lighting and this is why the Gunbudd Ultra lighting system works so well. I use it for every single paint job that I do. For every single paint job I have my GUNBUDD strapped on to the spray cup and it literally lights up the whole area. I can make sure I’m not getting any tiger stripes. I could make sure the paint is laying on nicely and it works really well. So check that out…

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QUESTION: If I paint in the day around 1, it’s about 67 degrees would it affect the paint job if it gets to 50 degrees a few hours later?

No, you should be fine. So if you’re painting around 67 degrees, paint usually sets up in about an hour and I don’t think it’s going to drop down to 50 within the hour. 

if you could warm your shop up a little with the heater, warm it up. Make sure your car is in there and the car gets to the temperature in the room (ambient temperature), shoot it. And then you should have a couple of hours where it stays pretty consistent during mid-day because the temperature usually gets warm around noon and then it’ll stay pretty warm till 4 pm. Give or take, 3 – 4 pm and you should be fine. 

So try to time it out to where you got the warmest part of the day, and do your paint job. It just needs an hour to set up and then if it cools down after that, that’s fine. I would make sure you’re using a medium reducer.

If it’s cool out I won’t use a slow, I’ll use medium even for clear coats but if you got in the mid-70s to 80s I like to use slow reducers so your clear coat flows out. For basecoats, you can use the medium throughout all types of temperature ranges.

For Basecoats, I usually go with medium reducers. If it’s cooler out or if it’s warmer out, I’ll still go medium but the clear coat is where you want to use a lower temperature reducer or activator. So it has a chance to flow out the clear coat. 

QUESTION:  What grit to use when sanding plastic spoilers?

It depends. Are you going to be finishing for painting or are you going to be priming on top of it? So if you’re gonna be priming on top of it, you could use 400, scuff it up, prime it and then flatten it out again with 400 grit and then you’re good. 

Normally I just go with 400, that’s my all-around grit. If you want to go a little coarser where you have to flatten out some body work in the plastic or whatever you can go to like a 320 if you want and then to 2k filler prime it and then finish off with 400.

QUESTION: (bed of the truck) Planning on hitting with the DA 240 grit to knock down the orange peel then hitting with a DA 400 grit then repaint, what do you think?

I think 240 is way too coarse but you could try it, it might be okay. Try 240 or 280, you might even get away with 320 grit, 240 seems a little rough but you could try it because you can always cut down to 400. 

Just make sure your 400 grit cuts through the coarser grits and you end up with a final 400 grit before you paint. Because if not, if you still have some of those remaining 240 grits under there, they might show up and they might not.

QUESTION:  ​What do you think about the inflatable paint booth? 

Those inflatable paint booths, not really into those. You can’t really keep them outside because if it rains you get all the water that basically pushes down on the middle of that paint booth. And then sometimes if the plastics are not sealed right, it leaks.

So you got to have really good conditions, low wind, sunny outside, it’s not like a permanent thing. If you’re going to be putting it permanently inside a garage, then yes, you might be better off that way. 

But for one of those portable things outside, I would rather just get a tent and just paint it under a regular 12 by 20 tent, that would be the better play. Just kind of close it off and have a box fan blowing out all the fumes, that would be great.

More Helpful Auto Body Videos Here⬇️⬇️⬇️

Spraying Metallic Paint On Your Custom Project: Auto Body Q&A 

Rust Repair On Car Door, How To Avoid Tiger Stripes When Applying Metallic Paint & More Autobody Q&A

High-Build Car Primer Paint Spraying Tips, Causes Of Spray Gun Sputtering, Priming Over Bondo | Q&A

Single-Stage On Bare Metal, Prepping Aluminum For Paint, No Paint Booth Autobody Work | More Q&A

Using LVLP Spray Gun To Shoot Metallic Base Coat Car Painting: Auto Body Q&A 

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More DIY Autobody and Paint Videos to Watch:

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🚘How To SPRAY PAINT Like a PRO! Even With a CRAP GUN! (Plus Much More):


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