How to add new paint over epoxy primer? What is the waiting time for the Epoxy to fully cure? -and a lot of autobody questions that I answered here. Check out this post to get your vehicle ready for professional paint. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody work/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project” and more custom autobody work and paint. Please also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link: https://ecomdomination.tonybrichie.com/
QUESTION: Lacquer primer over epoxy primer, how long to wait to coat over epoxy?
So anytime you’re using a Lacquer over Epoxy or 2K filler primer, you’re going to want to wait till that primer cures and that’s normally about an hour to an hour and a half -longer the better. So if you’re going to wait 2 hours or 3 hours or the next day, that’s fine. But the 90 minutes give or take for epoxy primer to cure.
QUESTION: How long should I wait after the base and clear coat to color sand and buff my roll pan?
The longer the better. So if you’re doing a customer job in a body shop, a lot of these jobs gotta go in and out. With most clear coats nowadays you can color sand and buff the next day but that doesn’t mean that the paint is completely cured. You can still let it cure a week or two weeks and still have time and give it the time it needs to properly cure.
I would say 2-3 weeks if you’re not in a rush, the longer the better to color sand, and buff but if you have to buff it the day or two after painting then you could absolutely do that.
QUESTION: I epoxy-primed my fenders about a year ago and finished with 320 grit, should I sand again?
Absolutely, of course, if you want to sand it, you could get it down. (I don’t know if you want to paint directly over it.) You could paint directly over it or you could put a 2k filler primer on top of that. So if you’re going to be putting another primer on top of that, you could sand it with 320.
Again, just get it sanded and then put a 2k filler primer on top of that. Sand it with 320 and then finish it off with the 400 dry or wet and you’d be ready for paint. Hopefully, that helps. But if you want to paint over the epoxy, which you can, you could paint right over that. Finish with 400 grit and then paint over it.
QUESTION: Sprayed a single-stage metallic came out bad, I’m going to repaint it. What do you suggest to do, 400 wet then respray?
It’s not bad to paint over layers of paint. But if you’re going on three, four, or five layers, yes, it’s pretty bad. But if it’s like a third layer, it’s not that bad, any more than three layers I would kind of rethink it, and maybe take it down.
So I’m not sure what you got going on there. But if you’re just going to be doing a respray like that, you should be fine. I would let that dry good -it’s a single stage, and I would let it sit for two weeks. Let that thing dry really well before you start sanding it. Then go ahead and you might want to use a 320 to take out the orange peel, the paint texture, and flatten it out.
And if you’re going to be painting with a single stage again, you could paint directly over 320 or you could even go down to 360. 400 is a little overkill for a single stage because a single stage is a very thick paint.
You can cover 320 pretty easily. So if I were you cut it down with a 320, you could even cheat and go with a 280 if you really want to get down quick and then finalize with like a 320 to 360 then you could put some new paint on top of it.
QUESTION: Do I need to put sealer over the primer surfacer if I went down to bare metal then Epoxy then Primer surfacer?
No, you don’t have to. You could finish primer surfacer if you’re using a 2k filler primer, that’s a fantastic foundation to paint over. So as long as you finish that with 400 grit if you’re going to be painting basically clear coat, you’re fine. But if you’re sanding down and you got a couple of metal spots showing or some body filler showing, yes, you could finish off with a sealer in the booth or in your garage right before you paint.
I recommend a 1k sealer and Mason has a good cheap 1k sealer that comes in the can. You don’t even have to mix it, well you do have to stir it up in the can but you don’t have to mix it with a reducer or hardener or anything, that’s it -1k sealer. You just mix it up into a can, strain it, put it in your cup, and hit all those spots that are showing a little bit of body filler cutting through or metal spots.
You could even do the whole panel if you want but Nason makes a great 1k sealer. I don’t have any in stock at the moment but it’s pretty much my go-to sealer. You could paint a single stage over a basecoat-clearcoat waterborne.
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