Auto bodywork and Paint on Bare Metal, Single Stage Repair, When To Use Sealer/Primer, and More Q&A

In this post, I answered some questions on how to paint and bodywork your bare metal car, how to repair your single-stage paint what’s the use of sealer/primer, and more autobody concerns. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody work/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project” and more custom autobody work and paintPlease also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link:

QUESTION:  Is this the right way –bare metal car, Epoxy block down inc repairs, re-wet on wet epoxy, and high build?

Yes, absolutely. Get it down to metal and you could do your bodywork at that point right over metal if you want. So if you have any panel beating to do, taking out dents, do body filler using some Bondo or some PPG filler Evercoat filler. You’re using some Bondo, shaping, and getting everything the way you want it.

You could do Epoxy over all of that, get the body straight, and have it all metal. You could even do sections at a time like sometimes a lot of people they’re not going to have the whole car ready at one shot down to the metal. Unless you did a media blasting, and you’re just ready to go. A lot of guys do parts of the car, the hood, maybe the front clip, the side, the hood, the roof, and the trunk. Get it down to metal and then you just do the bodywork and then you spray all that one day -you have that sealed.

So what I like to do over bare metal is get it down to the metal, do the bodywork, epoxy it, let that sit for about two hours and then lay 2-3 heavy coats of 2k filler primer. You don’t have to sand the epoxy if you’re spraying the 2k filler primer that day or anytime within 24 hours, you can spray a 2k filler primer over your epoxy just like that. 

If you’re going to be waiting more than a day to three days, I would give it a quick sand with maybe 320 grit just to put some scratches in it and then you can fill that out with 2k filler primer, then you could do your blocking and making sure it’s the way you want it. And you could paint right on top of that because that 2k is a perfect foundation to put new paint around on top of that after you block it out.

Or if you want to go the extra mile it’s not necessary, you have it all blocked out and ready for paint and then you spray sealer on it. While you’re in the booth or on the painting day, you spray your sealer and then you put your two coats of base and clear or a single stage or whatever you’re doing. I’m not sure what kind of paint you’re using, but that’s pretty much the step.

QUESTION:  Is it hard to fix single-stage paint mistakes?

No, you can easily color sand and buff a single stage. The only time you’re going to have an issue with single stages is if you run a metallic paint. So if you run a metallic paint on a single stage, you’re gonna get that metallic run. When you block sand that out, it’s like eight out of ten times you’re going to see that metallic sag.

It’s going to be flat, you’re going to buff it out, and it’s going to look great. Feel wise, it’s going to feel flat, it’s going to be shiny and all, but you’re going to have discoloration of that sag with any solid colors, you don’t have to worry about it.

QUESTION:  Wanted to know if it would be ok spraying single-stage red ag series from Tamco in sections a few days apart?

I don’t think you’re gonna have an issue with that, it should be fine as long as you got the same mixing ratio, and the same paint, you’re good. And when I say make sure your paint is mixed really well means say you have a brand new can of paint. you bought it a month ago and it’s been sitting. You mixed it up very lightly and you paint it but then you’ll notice later that you have some cakey film on the bottom of that original paint can.

Once you mix that up, the tint is going to change because a lot of the paint basically just caked down at the bottom (the pigments) and now when you mix that up and spray, then you’re going to see two different colors. So make sure your paint is mixed up really well before you do your mixing and spraying.

QUESTION: Any tips on how to do a metallic drop coat?

The tip is to make sure that you can see really well. I would say strap a GUNBUDD on so that while you’re painting you can see exactly how that metallic is looking when you’re blending or whatever. Don’t be afraid to lay it on, don’t be afraid to put paint on anything.

A lot of guys, they’re afraid to run but I would rather have a run in clear coat, not in candy, not in flakes or metallics or anything like that then be dry. Because it’s easier to fix a run than re-sanding and shooting because you don’t have enough paint on it.

QUESTION: When is sealer needed instead of primer?

A sealer is needed if you’re going to be doing a custom job. If you’re spending 10k or 15k on a paint job, it’s going to be an expensive custom job. Normally those jobs they put a sealer on it over the 2k filler primer or over the epoxy. 

Keep in mind that when spraying sealer-sealer before a base coat you have to be using a good gun. Use a good gun like an Atom or Iwata because your sealer has to come out nice and smooth with no orange peel because a true sealer before painting base coats or anything, it’s supposed to go on very smooth. Because if you have orange peel on that, you’re going to be painting your base coat because you’re not supposed to sand sealer.

You’re going to be painting your base coat on and it’s going to be orange because it looks horrible. This is why I advise people a 2K filler primer -if you think about it is a type of sealer and there are 2k filler primers on the market that all you have to do is add 10% more reducer and 15% more reducer. Pretty much all primers if you do this, it thins out and it just turns into like a sealer. 

So a primer-sealer is a way I like to go because you can lay on a 2k filler primer and then reduce it a little bit it becomes like a filler primer-sealer. Block it flat, it’s dry, it’s ready to go, you mask it up, clean it, tack it, and paint it right there -done. It’s not needed to use that last-minute sealer that shows cars and these types of cars have on it. You don’t have to do that to get show car results, it’s not needed. But if you want to do it, spend the extra couple of 100 bucks, spend the extra few hours, give or take to seal it and do it -it’s an extra step, but you don’t have to do it.

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