How To Prep and Paint Raw Bumper | Shooting Clear Over Single Stage | More Autobody Q&A

Proper preparation for shooting clear coat over a single stage, prepping new raw bumper for paint, spraying paint using a small compressor, and more autobody tips. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody work/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project”. Please also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link:

QUESTION:  ​What’s your procedure for new raw bumpers to paint?

Depending on the new raw bumper. Your bumper could have a primer on it already, brand new. It can have an e-coat on it. Normally metal pieces have an e-coat, but I’ve seen some plastic have an epoxy paint primer on it or an e-coat on plastic as well. If there’s like a black primer on it, you can sand that and you can paint right over it. Or you can sand it, and spray two coats of 2k filler primer, just to coat it. And then wet sand that so you have a nice sanded primed foundation and base coat clear coat or single stage right on top of that.

So normally you have to refinish brand new parts to get it ready for paint. So like I said metal, a lot of metal, new metal parts from the factory or secondhand market, they come black which is an e-coat primer, it’s very thin. I like to prime on top of that and you could paint on it if you sand it with 400 to 600, you could paint right over it. But I like to give it a coat of gray primer and then put my base coat clear coat on top of that. 

QUESTION:  How long can I wait after spraying the single-stage Candy Apple red before clear?

The longer the better. You sprayed your candy apple red single stage it’s dry, I’m assuming it’s dry. I like to let a single-stage cure for about 2 weeks before buffing it or before adding a clear coat over it. So I would just let it cure for 2 to 4 weeks. If you’re not in a rush, let it cure for a month, then you can go over with 800 grit.

If you’re going to clearcoat it, use 800 grit -don’t go with 600 or 400. A 2-course 800 grit is the perfect sand tooth where your clear coat will fill in the scratches and it will look nice again when you clear over it. 

QUESTION:  Have you ever painted a crystal effect?

Yeah, it’s basically just a flake or pearl crystal effect. It’s just another additive that you put in your clear coat. You could put it in clear or you can put it in a mid-coat which is a clear base coat. Or you could use a carrier like DBC 500 by PPG, it’s like a clear base coat. You mix it up, add your flake pearl or crystal effect, and then you spray that on then put a clear coat on top of that. 

QUESTION:  Have you used U-Pol products ie high build?

Yes, I have. U-Pol makes a good product so whatever they got, if you feel like you want to test it, I would go ahead and test it. I use a U-Pol raptor liner and some other rust products.

QUESTION:  Which of the Atom guns would be a good all-around gun using a small compressor?

If you’re looking for a standard-size spray gun, check out the Atom X20 or X27, it’s a good starter spray gun. The low volume low pressure version because not only does it use less materials, but it consumes a little less air. But if you really want to go for consumed air consumption and use less air, the Atom X88 is fantastic at that. That also is a low volume low pressure HTE spray gun which is a fancy acronym for high transfer efficiency.

So I’m just going to post the link guys here to You can check out some of the spray guns there and any guns that you buy at Zoolaa, they give you a free GUNBUDD Ultra lighting system which is a mounting light unit that basically lights up when you paint. It’s good for candies blending -all around. 

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