Spray guns are an important tool any time paint is involved. You’ve probably heard the terms “HVLP” and “LVLP.” But what do they mean? And which one should you choose? Check out this post for a little bit of information about these guns and I answered more auto body and paint concerns here. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody work/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project” and more custom autobody work and paint. Please also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link: https://ecomdomination.tonybrichie.com/
QUESTION: What’s the difference between Atom HVLP and LVLP? Looks like the same specs.
Basically, one is going to consume a little bit less air pressure and shoot out more volume. So low volume (LVLP) spray guns are going to use a little bit less paint as well. But it’s still amazing coverage, you’re using less paint and you’re using less air. High volume – low pressure (HVLP) spray guns, you’re going to be getting more paint on the panel.
But really side by side, it’s very hard to tell. This is why you know I say if you guys are using a smaller compressor, a low volume low pressure is better because you’re getting less. You have less holes in your air cap with a low volume – low pressure so you’re gonna be using less air, a little less material come out. I mean it’s really not a huge difference this is why I just recommend for people, if you’re using a large compressor, just go with the high volume low pressure if you have a smaller air compressor go with the low volume – low-pressure gun.
Follow-up question: High volume – low pressure more overspray?
Yeah, a little bit more. I spray with both guns all the time and the overspray seems pretty similar. Across all guns, I could be using my SATA and it’s pretty much similar. The higher pressure you spray at, the more overspray you’re gonna get no matter what gun you’re using. The lower pressure you’re using the less overspray but you get less atomization also. So you want to kind of be in that mid-range where you got good atomization like are good enough and not crazy overspray.
QUESTION: Painted with single-stage Candy Apple Red about 4 days ago, however, I want to go over it with another coat. Do I need to sand it lightly to make it stick?
Absolutely, yes. You did a single-stage candy apple red enamel, so maybe you’re lacking color in some areas that’s why you want to paint it or maybe you’re just looking for more shine. Because what you could do is sand it down with 800 grit and just put two coats of clear coat on it. You could do that.
But if you’re going to put more paint on it, I would sand it with 800 grit also and then you can put another heavy coat of paint on it. Actually, if you’re going to be putting paint on it, I would put two more coats of paint on it. That’s what I would do – but if you’re going to be doing a clear coat you could actually put regular Poly Urethane Clearcoat from the base coat – clear coat. For the clear coat, you can just put some Urethane clear coat (two coats) of that on top of what you got after you sand it with 800 grit and you’ll be fine.
QUESTION: I use my atom LVLP for clearcoat, it seems like less mist in the air.
Yes, I believe so. Another fantastic gun if you guys are looking for low overspray, you guys should definitely check out the Atom X88.
I sprayed this thing with a clear coat with 18 to 20 pounds of pressure and it came out like glass using the Atom X88.
For some reason this gun uses a lot less pressure, the atomization is so fine even at low pressures it lays down like glass. So check out the Atom X88 – if you see it HTE means high transfer efficiency and it’s a really good gun that I like to spray with.
QUESTION: Single stage or base/clear for painting wheels? Also what brand of paint do you recommend?
It depends. You could do either or if you’re on a budget – a single stage is going to be cheaper for you. It’s going to be faster because you just got to go to medium-wet heavy coats and you’re done.
With the base coat clear coat you got to put out two coats, 2-3 coats of base. Make sure your base is on nice and then you’re going to put two coats of clear coat. So it’s double the painting time and a little bit more expensive but comes out nice because you got clear coat on. It comes out nice but the single stage also dries nice if you know how to lay it on. If you lay single stage on wet it comes out really nice. So it’s really up to you, you can do either or.
And you’re asking what brand I recommend? Do you want to go high end or do you want to go mid-grade? If you’re looking for a mid-grade, I like PPG base coats – you could go a little cheaper. You can go with Omni – Omni is a great brand. Also, the ShopLine line is a good medium-grade brand here.
They also have ShopLine Plus, it’s a little higher grade but this is a good base coat, clear coats (ShopLine). I like Finish1, it has been treating me very well, about 100 bucks a gallon kit, and gives you a little over five quarts of mixed product that you can use.
QUESTION: What are your paint gun setting or trigger techniques when spot blending?
Basically, everything is a wide open fan, quarter turn back, trigger pulled wide open when everything’s just done with your trigger. It’s pretty easy when you’re spot blending. You’re just dusting and blending so just look at it and make sure you have good lighting.
This is why I highly recommend the Gunbudd Ultra Lighting System. If you guys don’t know what that is, check out Amazon and check out Gunbudd. It snaps onto any spray guns and it lights up everything perfect for shooting candies flake and pro and also spot repairs because you can see exactly how your blend job is working.
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