Correctly Laying On Adhesion Promoter: Auto Body Q&A 👍

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Are you ready for another auto body Q&A session? 🥳

Tony B. Richie is back and today’s focus question is Correctly Laying On Adhesion Promoter.

Question:  I had a horrible reaction with plastic adhesion. What’s the best way to clean plastic? Do you recommend a certain brand for plastic adhesion? 

I recommend Bulldog which is a good brand. You need to scuff it with a red 3M scuff pad or 400-grit then lay down your adhesion promoter. You just need to dust it on and don’t load it on like you’re spraying clear coat. Adhesion promoter needs to be tacky and you don’t need to put too much of it on. 

Question: What do you think of the glue on stud puller?

I had one and used it on my 2017 Tacoma since there were hail dents on it. I wasn’t too much happy with it. They make it look easy on commercials, but it really isn’t like that. You can pop out big dents with it but you might still have a ripple. It’s not 100% straight when you’re done with it. 

It’s good for popping out dents but you won’t get that professional auto body finish. However, you can scuff it after with 80-grit if you want to paint it after. 

Question: Is epoxy primer sandable? I heard that epoxy is not sandable. Eastwood has the 2k epoxy in spray cans. I only need it for the hardtop.

Yes, absolutely. Any kind of primer is sandable. You can spray 2K filler primer on top of that on the same day or even the day after you spray epoxy primer. 

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Last Updated on November 17, 2020 by Tony

2 thoughts on “Correctly Laying On Adhesion Promoter: Auto Body Q&A 👍”

  1. Hey Tony B,
    I’m prepping my ’02 ‘vert mustang GT for paint. Body very straight but was heavily delaminated. mid prep I found out it’s mostly composite or plastic. Hood & scoop, trunk lid, spoiler, side scoops, bumpers, frame on sides of windshield & rocker panels-all non metal. I’m not looking for show car resto, just look fresher and something I can keep waxed & clean. Not removing all paint except where the delam was cracked to the primer (basically all horizontal parts) so feathering and sanding everything else. Re-painting orig B-7 Zinc Yellow color. tentative plan is after prep sanding, apply filler to minor blems, sand filler into shape, spot places where metal is exposed with Acid etched primer, shoot adhesion promoter over whole car, 3 coats hi build urethane primer, guide coat, sand, shoot 1 coat of sealer, then 3 base coats, 3-4 clear coats, followed by wet sanding, buffing, curing, etc. Limited on time (only car I own), $ & energy. Other than not stripping completely, do you see any glaring errors in my plan? and what do you suggest I do differently?
    Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with one who has none. Rob

    Reply

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