Hi, it’s Tony with another live stream. We’re going to discuss this topic today, Do You Use Expensive Materials or Cheaper Solutions When Painting?
Thank you for getting on tonight. We’ll talk about paint materials. Have you experimented with different brands? I would test out different brands just to see how they were.
Some paint companies died down because they didn’t have the marketing power to stay in business. But, some are really bad.
When you’re painting, you’ll notice dye back on cheaper clears. When I first did a review of the Advantage, I gave it a 7 out of 10. After using it a few times, I noticed that it wasn’t that good. This brand is good for getting jobs out, when you’re doing shop jobs.
You could test both the high end clear coat and cheaper one on two cars and wait for two weeks. The high end clear like House of Kolor, will have a nice gloss. You’ll get a very low dye back, unlike cheaper clears where it starts to get dull.
But, if you color sand and buff the cheaper clears like the Advantage, it will like look just like the House of Kolor. You won’t tell the difference. A lot of body shops use the cheap clear unless you monitor their work every day.
I am speaking to someone right now about an unknown European brand. They will be sending me some clear coat to test with. They say it’s top of the line for a lot less money.
Once they send it over, I’ll do some reviews and let you know how it went. They’ll send me a bunch of materials. I will never recommend bad products. I always recommend quality materials at lower price, gives value to your money, and products that I will use myself.
I used the Miata and the BMW with House of Kolor. You can see the difference in shine. I might be getting a 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata. We’re still in the process of closing the deal.
Question: What do you mean by cut?
A cut means when you color sand and buff to get mirror finishes like in any car shows. Mind you, these show cars go under intensive color sanding and buffing processes.
My buffing pads are from Buff And Shine. It’s a good product. It’s all made in California. I’m going to start reselling them on the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint Shop Page, so you can order them at a very good price. I will also be relisting a lot of my products on Amazon, so that’s really awesome.
Question: Will these pads be sold in a kit?
Yes. You’ll get the Velcro ventilated adapter for your 7-inch buffer, your wool pad for heavy duty cutting (this is good for single-stage), the yellow pad which is softer because of the synthetic strings and good for all-around buffing.
The foam pad is your final process. This is filling in all the swirl marks from the wool. Foam gets hot pretty quickly especially if you’re doing the glaze. Watch the video as I show you how to keep it cool.
I’m going to put together a lot of good quality materials at a lower price, so I’m working it out with a lot of contacts.
Question: Do you always use a sealer over primer before you use base coat?
Yes and no. If you want to, you can. Or, you can do what I do, which is buy a primer sealer. That’s 2-in-1. You can prime it, block it out then sand it and works as a sealer as well.
Question: What is a reducer and a lacquer thinner?
A reducer can be used for reducing clear coat and base coat. Lacquer thinner is good for cleaning guns and parts, as well as getting paint off your hands. It is also used in mixing lacquer primer. I don’t use lacquer primer anymore.
My mini-truck is in the other garage because I’m doing some buffing on the Miata and the BMW.
If you’re doing final stage detailing and buffing on a car, make sure that it’s not near a car that you’re going to do some body work and paint on.
You get some splatter with the compounds and contaminates the air a little bit causing some chemical reactions.
I have some of the complete Mazda Miata project within the LearnAutoBodyAndPaint VIP Course. For those who are interested in the VIP program, go check it out.
Question: When spot blending, does the size of the gun matter?
Yes and no. If you’re doing a little area like what I show you in the video, you need to use a smaller gun. But, if you’re blending a door, you would like to use a bigger gun.
The last time we talk about buffing, I forgot to talk about buffing speed. You want to start buffing at about 1500 RPM to get the compound in.
When you’re actually buffing, a good speed is around 1700-1775 RPM. When you’re doing the foam pad, you could lower it down to 1500 because the foam pad gets hot quick and you don’t need a lot of power to glass it out.
Question: Don’t you think Harbor Freight is good for a one-time paint job?
It’s not just a one-time paint job. It’s how the gun is going to perform. I would not use a Harbor Freight Spray Gun or any of those cheap kits that you can get for $80.
I bought them, used them and made reviews on them. They are just a piece of crap and threw them out.
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I went to a VIP member’s house last week. His name is Paul and he’s Australian, an Aircraft Mechanic. He’s a very, very nice guy.
He will be painting his Cessna 150 in his two-car garage. Check out the video as I show you his plane.
He’s going to be using a special aircraft paint. He has a special primer, which is a pretty thin primer. He told me that the regulations are pretty strict.
After painting every panel, it has to be weighed and balanced. Each side of the wing should be balanced. He’s doing a single-stage paint with no clear coat.
He’s done a research on it and knows more than I do about painting an aircraft, with a red, white and blue color scheme. It’s going to be pretty cool.
Right now, he’s working on stripping it down with paint stripper. He’ll paint the body first then do the wings. I’ll be stopping over every once in a while and maybe help him out.
It’s Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. Thank you for coming on tonight. Join me again next week, Thursday at 9pm Eastern.
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Talk soon! Cheers!
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